Description
IT-Works developed this toolhead for the LulzBot® TAZ around the E3D Titan Aero extruder and V6 hot end to give you these benefits:
- Lighter weight stepper and components improve printhead placement accuracy and reduces wear
- Shorter filament path improves filament retraction and extrusion accuracy. By having a short, well constrained filament path, the Titan Aero is great for flexible filaments. It minimizes places where filament can bend, buckle and jam, giving a better flexible printing experience. The short filament path is also beneficial for regular filaments by improving extrusion responsiveness. This means that extrusion can start and stop more immediately, giving accurate, cleaner prints.
- Precision machined gears ensure accurate ESTEP calibration, and make for more consistent performance over time
- Surround cooling duct improves print performance. Here’s a real world example E3D Titan Aero duct improves print performance
- Very quite in comparison with a stock toolhead.
- Ability to print solid and flexible filaments without changing toolheads
- Optional hardened parts reduce wear when printing abrasive filaments
- Titan Aero is built on the E3D V6 all metal design, allowing you to reliably print any thermoplastic at temperatures of more than 300°C.
- It’s also been designed to take standard V6 heatbreaks, so that you can interchange components from E3D’s entire modular ecosystem to suit your needs. Choose from temperature sensors, heater cartridges, Volcano, or one of the E3D’s 92 different nozzles.
- Available for 1.75mm filament, giving you a wider filament selection. Consider going this route. Cura 2 makes it easy to set up a machine and profiles for 1.75mm, and we will be testing a multi filament option that only works with 1.75mm.
The included nozzle size is .4mm, If you need a different size please add that and other upgrade options to the cart at the time of toolhead purchase.
IF you have a TAZ 5 and choose the PRO Duct Upgrade you may have to upgrade your corner washers to flat washers.
Purchased the previous version of our toolhead and want to upgrade?
Thank you for your support!! We made several upgrade options for the E3D Titan Aero toolhead for you!
Want upgrades for better durability with abrasive filaments (E3D Hardened hob, Micro Swiss wear resistant heat break, E3D Titanium Heat Break, nozzles, etc)? Add those items to your cart along with a note at checkout and we will install them!!
Works with LulzBot® TAZ 6, LulzBot® TAZ 5, and other TAZs with:
– 24V power supplies (all TAZ 3,4,5,6)
– Hexagon Firmware. (TAZ 5,6- other TAZs need to have a firmware update with Cura LulzBot® Edition)
– V2C toolhead connector
We build these toolhead per order, and test every single one before it goes out to ensure quality prints.
60 day warranty and support from IT-Works
*** This is not a LulzBot® product and LulzBot® does not support or warranty this toolhead ***
Q&A:
How to order with upgraded parts
Add all the items you want with your toolhead to the cart(Hardened Hobb Gear, Hardened Nozzle, Either a Titanium Heat Break for 1.75 and Wear Resistant Heat Break for 3mm, all necessary parts for printing abrasive material).
We keep the original parts and install your parts. Simple as that, with no extra labor cost involved.
Please allow up to 2 days for your toolhead to be built and tested.
Q: Can I just turn the feed rate up on the LCD 10% for semi-flexible and 25% for flexible filaments?
A: We suggest starting with higher base ESTEPs first. You can use the feed rate knob to fine tune extrusion.
Q: If I have a 3mm Titan Aero, can I print 1.75mm filament?
A: You can, but with a few qualifications.
- Ideally (but not required) you swap the 3mm filament guide insert below the hobbed bolt for a 1.75mm filament guide https://itworks3d.com/product/e3d-filament-guide-titan-titan-aero/
- Don't print 1.75mm flexible filaments in a 3mm Titan Aero. The heatbreak and hotend would still be 3mm, making room for flexible 1.75 to coil and bunch up
- You'll need to experiment with flow and retraction retraction settings.
Q: Can I print faster with the Titan Aero toolhead without losing quality?
A: Testing has shown very good results with 50-100% faster print speeds, especially with flexible filaments. Try it!
Q: Where are the files for the printed parts?
A: Here you go! https://www.thingiverse.com/ITWorks/designs
Q: How about versions for the LulzBot Mini and dual/multiple filaments?
A: Here's the: E3D Titan Aero Toolhead for LulzBot Mini
We now offer the Palette+ 4 filament system. Check it out!!
Q: What parts do I need to build my own E3D Titan Aero toolhead for the LulzBot TAZ?
1 E3D TITAN AERO EXTRUDER 24V Mirrored
1 .5mm E3D V6 nozzle (a .4mm nozzle is included with the Titan Aero Extruder, if that works for you)
1 2x8 dual row connector housing
15 CONN PIN 24-30AWG CRIMP TIN Type Molex 0016020108 Male. Buy extras though if you're new to crimping these. We've found a PAD-11 crimper to be a good choice to crimp them.
1 FAN BLOWER 51.3X15MM BALL BEARING 24V RADIAL
1 FAN 40X10MM 5V AXIAL
1 MICRO SWITCH
1 FULL HEIGHT NEMA 17 STEPPER MOTOR. You CAN use half height stepper motors (and potentially even pancake steppers), but we've found them to not have enough torque in some situations.
1 screw kit
2 CONN QC RCPT 22-26AWG 0.110 (24-26awg insulated spade lugs. We use TE Connectivity 7-520366-2
1 CONN RING CIRC 22-26AWG #4 CRIMP We use Panduit P22-4R-M
Add all the items you want with your toolhead to the cart(Hardened Hobb Gear, Hardened Nozzle, Either a Titanium Heat Break for 1.75 and Wear Resistant Heat Break for 3mm, all necessary parts for printing abrasive material).
We keep the original parts and install your parts. Simple as that, with no extra labor cost involved.
Please allow up to 2 days for your toolhead to be built and tested.
A: We suggest starting with higher base ESTEPs first. You can use the feed rate knob to fine tune extrusion.
A: You can, but with a few qualifications.
- Ideally (but not required) you swap the 3mm filament guide insert below the hobbed bolt for a 1.75mm filament guide https://itworks3d.com/product/e3d-filament-guide-titan-titan-aero/
- Don't print 1.75mm flexible filaments in a 3mm Titan Aero. The heatbreak and hotend would still be 3mm, making room for flexible 1.75 to coil and bunch up
- You'll need to experiment with flow and retraction retraction settings.
A: Testing has shown very good results with 50-100% faster print speeds, especially with flexible filaments. Try it!
A: Here you go! https://www.thingiverse.com/ITWorks/designs
A: Here's the: E3D Titan Aero Toolhead for LulzBot Mini
We now offer the Palette+ 4 filament system. Check it out!!
1 E3D TITAN AERO EXTRUDER 24V Mirrored
1 .5mm E3D V6 nozzle (a .4mm nozzle is included with the Titan Aero Extruder, if that works for you)
1 2x8 dual row connector housing
15 CONN PIN 24-30AWG CRIMP TIN Type Molex 0016020108 Male. Buy extras though if you're new to crimping these. We've found a PAD-11 crimper to be a good choice to crimp them.
1 FAN BLOWER 51.3X15MM BALL BEARING 24V RADIAL
1 FAN 40X10MM 5V AXIAL
1 MICRO SWITCH
1 FULL HEIGHT NEMA 17 STEPPER MOTOR. You CAN use half height stepper motors (and potentially even pancake steppers), but we've found them to not have enough torque in some situations.
1 screw kit
2 CONN QC RCPT 22-26AWG 0.110 (24-26awg insulated spade lugs. We use TE Connectivity 7-520366-2
1 CONN RING CIRC 22-26AWG #4 CRIMP We use Panduit P22-4R-M
Installing, Using, and Maintaining the LulzBot® TAZ E3D Titan Aero toolhead:
Unloading filament
- Video: How to Unload filament with the E3D Titan Aero
- Heat the hotend to a suitable filament change temperature- 200C is good for ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU
- In Cura, or from the TAZ LCD, retract approx 100mm of filament, until the loaded filament retracts clear of the hobbed feed bolt
- Pull up on the filament with moderate force while it's retracting to prevent soft filament from wadding up between the hob and the underside of the idler lever until the filament pulls free of the top of the idler lever.
- Be sure to not leave PLA sitting stationary in a heated hotend, or to heat it past recommended temperatures, as this can cause crystallization, possibly requiring replacement parts.
- We do not recommend manually inserting or removing filament, as improper removal can result in jamming.
Uninstalling a toolhead on the LulzBot TAZ
- Unload filament from the installed toolhead
- Note the ESTEPS for the current toolhead if you don't know them- Step 9 in LulzBot's toolhead calibration guide. We suggest labeling the toolhead for future reference.
- Note the ESTEPs on the label on the E3D Titan Aero toolhead- either on the back or on the stepper motor.
- Turn off power to the printer
- Unplug the V2C toolhead connector from the toolhead harness
- Don't get burned! If the hotend was heated, wait for it to cool to a safe handling temperature.
- While supporting the toolhead, remove the screw at the top of the toolhead mounting plate that secures the toolhead to the X carriage
- Slide the toolhead up and then toward you to remove it from its mounting bracket
Installing a toolhead on the LulzBot TAZ
- Hold the toolhead with the back plate vertical
- (first time install on a TAZ 5) replace the X carriage guide with the included blue printed TAZ 6 style x carriage guide to make clearance for the X max switch.
- Insert the V wedge at the bottom of the toolhead back plate into the V shaped mounting bracket on the X carriage
- Press down toward the bed with moderate pressure to seat the V wedge in the mounting bracket.
- While supporting the toolhead, insert the mounting screw through the hole at the top of the toolhead mounting plate and thread it in to the brass insert in the X carriage until it is snug.
- Plug the V2C toolhead connector into the toolhead harness, taking care to insert the pins straight and into their correct mates
- Turn the printer on and check that the heat sink cooling fan on the right is spinning. It should be spinning whenever the printer is turned on. If it is not spinning, turn the printer off and double check that the V2C connector is plugged in correctly.
- If the heatsink cooling fan is spinning, either set up the toolhead in Cura, or select the correct machine for the filament you are using in Cura, then load filament
- (TAZ 5) loosen the Z minimum knob significantly to ensure the nozzle doesn't run into the bed the first time you home it. Tighten the Z minimum knob and home Z repeatedly until the nozzle is the correct height over the bed.
Install Cura 2
Cura 2 LuzlBot Edition now contains firmware and profiles optimized for the E3D Titan Aero on the TAZ 6, allowing you to easily switch between profile for solid and flexible filament, and well as easy configuration for 1.75mm filament and alternative nozzle sizes from the factory .5mm size. Thanks LulzBot!
- Download Cura 2 from https://www.lulzbot.com/cura
- At first run, you'll be asked to Add Machine, select: LulzBot TAZ6 AeroStruder, or Taz 5, as appropriate
- To add a machine after first run: Settings > Printer > Add Printer
- At the bottom of the window, give it a descriptive name, especially if you're using 1.75mm filament or other nozzle sizes.
- Click Add Printer
- Set the filament size and nozzle size you purchased (defaults are 2.85mm and 0.5mm)
- Click Finish
- Click Close
Flash Firmware
- From Cura 2 LulzBot Edition, available at lulzbot.com/cura
- Select the correct printer from the pulldown in the upper right
- Settings > Printer > Manage Printers
- Check that the correct printer is highlighted under the Printers list
- Turn the printer on
- Connect the printer to the computer with a USB cable
- Click Upgrade Firmware
- Click Upgrade Firmware Automatically
- Wait for the firmware to flash, click OK and close as needed when it's done.
- Be sure to update ESTEPS (especially on the TAZ 5, the TAZ 6 Aerostruder factory ESTEPS are ok). Make sure this is correct for your machine, filament and toolhead by performing and ESTEPS calibration
Update ESTEPs and ESTEP Calibration
For proper operation, the ESTEPS for every toolhead need to be and stored in the printer.
Change and save ESTEPS of 415 using the instructions in this handy video Video: How to store ETEPS in a LulzBot TAZ 3D printer
(Optional) Calibrate ESTEPS:
For best operation, it's a good idea to calibrate the ESTEPS to minimize under or over-extrusion
To calibrate ESTEPS:
- Open Cura
- Load a model (it doesn’t matter what)
- Open the Control window
- Heat up the nozzle to the proper printing temperature for your filament
- Load your filament using the extrude 10mm button- around 50mm should do it.
- Mark the filament at 100mm and 120mm above the idler
- In the lower right of the control window, there is a white text box where you type in the appropriate Gx Fxx Exxx (USE CAPITAL LETTERS) below, then press enter
- G92 E0
- For Flexible filament: G1 F30 E100
- For Solid filament: G1 F50 E100
Fxx is the feed rate in mm, Exx is the length of filament to extrude. It’s also good idea to calibrate your other toolheads, if you’ve not done so.
- The toolhead will extrude, then stop.
- Make note of how high or low above the toolhead the 100mm mark fell. If it over-extrudes past the 100mm mark, you can measure to the 120mm mark to gauge how much it over-extruded
- Adjust the ESTEPS, increase or decrease them approx. 6 steps per 1 mm of under or over-extrusion, then save them to the printer:
- M92 Exxx
(this sets the new ESTEPS. E400, E432, E411, etc) - M500
(this saves the ESTEPS to the printer) - M501
(this displays the settings, check that your new ESTEPS are saved)
- Close the control window
- Repeat from step 3 until the 100mm mark reaches the point you measured from (the toolhead is extruding 100mm)
Repeat this process for flexible filament you use. We have found that ESTEPs may vary depending on the flexibility of the filament used, so it’s a good idea to calibrate ESTEPs for your filament.
Tune Thermistor PID factors (only needed for TAZ 5, or if you haven't updated the TAZ 6 with Cura 2 Firmware)
Here's a good summary of the process found at lincomatic.com to fine tune your thermistor PID settings in your printer's Marlin firmware to better maintain hot end temperature:
- Allow your hot end to cool to room temp.
- In the terminal in Cura, send the following command: M303 S230 if extruding filament at 230. Change the number in the command to reflect the temperature at which you normally extrude. The M303 SXXX command will tune the extruder.
The hot end will then heat up and finally cool, while logging the temperature. When completed, similar values will be displayed:
bias: 101 d: 101 min: 145.48 max: 154.02
Ku: 64.06 Tu: 29.67
Clasic PID
Kp: 19.5
Ki: 1.5
Kd: 63.48
Type that information into the Cura terminal box using the following format, with your values substituted appropriately, then press enter:
M301 P19.50 I1.50 D63.48
Enter the following command and press enter to save the PID settings to EEPROM.
M500
Add “machines” with ESTEPs for flexible filament in Cura
We've found that correct ESTEPs for the E3D Titan Aero vary depending on the stiffness of the filament. Softer filaments need around 25% higher ESTEPs, and medium flex filaments need around 10% higher.
Here's how to set ESTEPs for different filaments in Cura LulzBot Edition. We know it's a bit of work, but it will make swapping between flex and solid filaments quick and easy!
*** IMPORTANT: DO NOT FLASH FIRMWARE when switching to the "MACHINE" with the Flexystruder, just skip flashing firmware, it's not needed.
- Note the ESTEPs on the label on the toolhead- either on the back or on the stepper motor. If you don't have the label handy, start with 415 ESTEPs for solid filaments
- Open Cura LulzBot Edition (direction Below based on Cura LulzBot Edition Version 21.0X)
- "Machine" menu
- "Add New Machine..."
- Select your Machine
- LulzBot TAZ 4 or 5
- Modified LulzBot TAZ 4 or 5
- PEI
- v2 (LulzBot Hexagon)
- Single Extruder
- Single Extruder V2/.5mm OR Flexystruder V2 if the Machine is for flexible filaments
- .5mm nozzle (note that the stock Flexystruder V2 nozzle is .6mm, you'll need to change that in your print profile when printing flexibles)
- LulzBot TAZ 6
- Single Extruder
- Single Extruder V2.1 OR Flexystruder V2 if the Machine is for flexible filaments
- .5mm nozzle (note that the stock Flexystruder V2 nozzle is .6mm, you'll need to change that in your print profile when printing flexibles)
- "Machine" menu
- Ensure the Machine you just added is selected
- Machine Settings
- Change Machine Name
- Enter a new name that will be useful. LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Ninjaflex, LulzBot TAZ 5 Aero Solid, LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Semiflex, etc. Click OK
- In the "E-Steps per 1mm of filament", enter appropriate ESTEPs for the filament you are printing. Around 400 for solid, 440 for semi flexible, 500 for soft filaments. Click OK
- Follow the steps in "calibrating Your Toolhead" to get the correct ESTEPs for your filament and toolhead on your printer
- Repeat from Step 3 for each of the filaments you intend to use. We recommend at least 1 "Machine" for each of solid and flexible filament.
Switching Between Filament Types with the E3D Titan Aero toolhead installed (Flexible filament profiles: change nozzle from .6mm to .5mm)
- Machine Menu
- Select the "Machine" you that you intend to use that you created earlier (LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Ninjaflex, LulzBot TAZ 5 Aero Solid, LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Semiflex, etc)
- *** IMPORTANT: DO NOT FLASH FIRMWARE when switching to the "MACHINE" with the Flexystruder, just skip flashing firmware, it's not needed.
- Select the filament and quality you want to print
- If printing flexibles, check that a .5mm nozzle is set in the profile
- Expert Menu
- Switch to Full Settings
- Yes to "Copy the settings from quickprint...."
- Advanced tab
- Check that Nozzle size (mm) is .5mm
- We DO offer additional optional E3D nozzles in different sizes!
- You can Save the profile settings to preserve the nozzle size and any other tuning you've done
- File menu> Save Profile, Save the .ini file somewhere convenient.
- File menu> Open Profile to load the .ini file you created later
Loading Filament
- Video: How to load filament with the E3D Titan Aero
- Heat the hotend to a suitable filament change temperature- 200C is good for ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU
- Trim the end of the filament square
- Ensure the tension knob is set properly- approx 2 turns from fully loose for solid filaments. Some flexibles need another 1-2 turns tighter.
- Push the filament in through the hole in the filament lever until it is pressing with moderate pressure against the hobbed bolt below the filament lever
- In Cura, or from the TAZ LCD, extrude approx 100mm of filament until the new filament pushes the prior filament out through the nozzle. This is known as "purging" the old filament.
- Push the filament down into the idler until the hob has grabbed the filament and is feeding the filament.
- Be sure to not leave PLA sitting stationary in a heated hotend, or to heat it past recommended temperatures, as this can cause crystallization, possibly requiring replacement parts.
- We do not recommend manually inserting or removing filament, as improper removal can result in jamming
Setting the E3D Titan Aero Filament Tension knob
- We have found that a good starting tension knob adjustment is 1.5 turns for hard filament and 2-3 turns for softer filaments.
- Per the E3D Titan Aero Wiki's "Adjusting Idler Force" section: "The idler force can be adjusted using the thumb wheel on the side of the extruder. The nut and spring that actually apply the force can be viewed through the lid, giving a quick indicator of the force being applied. The force required will depend on a range of parameters, such as filament material, filament diameter, extrusion rate etc. As a general rule softer filaments (such as flexibles) will need less force than harder ones as the hobb can more easily grip them. The idler force does not need to be perfect in order to print, however to get the best settings for your printer and material combination we advise a little bit of experimentation to find a setting that feels right."
1.75 Filament Profile Adjustments for Cura
- Change the filament diameter in your Cura profiles to 1.75
- For the Taz 6, reduce retraction distance by half or more to avoid retracting the filament up into the heat break or filament guide. Do this in the Start .Gcode section- change the line G1 E-30 F100 to G1 E-15 F100
- Save the filament profile for later use
How to change nozzle on the E3D Titan Aero hotend
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself.
Here's a video on How To Remove and E3D Nozzle
- Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages.
- Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.
- Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.
- Insert the new nozzle.
- Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile.
- Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.
- Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.
Removing Stuck Filament
Heat the hotend to printing temperature for the loaded filament
Loosen the idler tension knob all the way by turning clockwise until it stops
Pull the idler toward you so it's no longer pressing the filament against the hob gear
Try pushing the filament through manually.
If you can get push the filament through through, check the hob for plastic debris and clean as necessary (be sure to rotate it to see all the ridges)
Tighten the idler tension bolt again around 1.5 turn CCW
From the LCD or Cura, extrude around 40mm of filament to purge the filament
To remove the filamant after purging: From the LCD or Cura, retract around 40mm of filament, pulling up on the filament with moderate force to ensure the filament is fully removed from the idler which prevents blobs of filament hardeneing between the idler bottom and hob gear, preventing removal in the future.
If these steps fail, there may be a filament frangment stuck in the filament path. Try disassembling the toolhead to clear the filament path.
Here's a video on How To Disassemble the IT-Works Titan Aero Toolhead
- Video: How to Unload filament with the E3D Titan Aero
- Heat the hotend to a suitable filament change temperature- 200C is good for ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU
- In Cura, or from the TAZ LCD, retract approx 100mm of filament, until the loaded filament retracts clear of the hobbed feed bolt
- Pull up on the filament with moderate force while it's retracting to prevent soft filament from wadding up between the hob and the underside of the idler lever until the filament pulls free of the top of the idler lever.
- Be sure to not leave PLA sitting stationary in a heated hotend, or to heat it past recommended temperatures, as this can cause crystallization, possibly requiring replacement parts.
- We do not recommend manually inserting or removing filament, as improper removal can result in jamming.
- Unload filament from the installed toolhead
- Note the ESTEPS for the current toolhead if you don't know them- Step 9 in LulzBot's toolhead calibration guide. We suggest labeling the toolhead for future reference.
- Note the ESTEPs on the label on the E3D Titan Aero toolhead- either on the back or on the stepper motor.
- Turn off power to the printer
- Unplug the V2C toolhead connector from the toolhead harness
- Don't get burned! If the hotend was heated, wait for it to cool to a safe handling temperature.
- While supporting the toolhead, remove the screw at the top of the toolhead mounting plate that secures the toolhead to the X carriage
- Slide the toolhead up and then toward you to remove it from its mounting bracket
- Hold the toolhead with the back plate vertical
- (first time install on a TAZ 5) replace the X carriage guide with the included blue printed TAZ 6 style x carriage guide to make clearance for the X max switch.
- Insert the V wedge at the bottom of the toolhead back plate into the V shaped mounting bracket on the X carriage
- Press down toward the bed with moderate pressure to seat the V wedge in the mounting bracket.
- While supporting the toolhead, insert the mounting screw through the hole at the top of the toolhead mounting plate and thread it in to the brass insert in the X carriage until it is snug.
- Plug the V2C toolhead connector into the toolhead harness, taking care to insert the pins straight and into their correct mates
- Turn the printer on and check that the heat sink cooling fan on the right is spinning. It should be spinning whenever the printer is turned on. If it is not spinning, turn the printer off and double check that the V2C connector is plugged in correctly.
- If the heatsink cooling fan is spinning, either set up the toolhead in Cura, or select the correct machine for the filament you are using in Cura, then load filament
- (TAZ 5) loosen the Z minimum knob significantly to ensure the nozzle doesn't run into the bed the first time you home it. Tighten the Z minimum knob and home Z repeatedly until the nozzle is the correct height over the bed.
Cura 2 LuzlBot Edition now contains firmware and profiles optimized for the E3D Titan Aero on the TAZ 6, allowing you to easily switch between profile for solid and flexible filament, and well as easy configuration for 1.75mm filament and alternative nozzle sizes from the factory .5mm size. Thanks LulzBot!
- Download Cura 2 from https://www.lulzbot.com/cura
- At first run, you'll be asked to Add Machine, select: LulzBot TAZ6 AeroStruder, or Taz 5, as appropriate
- To add a machine after first run: Settings > Printer > Add Printer
- At the bottom of the window, give it a descriptive name, especially if you're using 1.75mm filament or other nozzle sizes.
- Click Add Printer
- Set the filament size and nozzle size you purchased (defaults are 2.85mm and 0.5mm)
- Click Finish
- Click Close
- From Cura 2 LulzBot Edition, available at lulzbot.com/cura
- Select the correct printer from the pulldown in the upper right
- Settings > Printer > Manage Printers
- Check that the correct printer is highlighted under the Printers list
- Turn the printer on
- Connect the printer to the computer with a USB cable
- Click Upgrade Firmware
- Click Upgrade Firmware Automatically
- Wait for the firmware to flash, click OK and close as needed when it's done.
- Be sure to update ESTEPS (especially on the TAZ 5, the TAZ 6 Aerostruder factory ESTEPS are ok). Make sure this is correct for your machine, filament and toolhead by performing and ESTEPS calibration
For proper operation, the ESTEPS for every toolhead need to be and stored in the printer.
Change and save ESTEPS of 415 using the instructions in this handy video Video: How to store ETEPS in a LulzBot TAZ 3D printer
(Optional) Calibrate ESTEPS:
For best operation, it's a good idea to calibrate the ESTEPS to minimize under or over-extrusion
To calibrate ESTEPS:
- Open Cura
- Load a model (it doesn’t matter what)
- Open the Control window
- Heat up the nozzle to the proper printing temperature for your filament
- Load your filament using the extrude 10mm button- around 50mm should do it.
- Mark the filament at 100mm and 120mm above the idler
- In the lower right of the control window, there is a white text box where you type in the appropriate Gx Fxx Exxx (USE CAPITAL LETTERS) below, then press enter
- G92 E0
- For Flexible filament: G1 F30 E100
- For Solid filament: G1 F50 E100
Fxx is the feed rate in mm, Exx is the length of filament to extrude. It’s also good idea to calibrate your other toolheads, if you’ve not done so.
- The toolhead will extrude, then stop.
- Make note of how high or low above the toolhead the 100mm mark fell. If it over-extrudes past the 100mm mark, you can measure to the 120mm mark to gauge how much it over-extruded
- Adjust the ESTEPS, increase or decrease them approx. 6 steps per 1 mm of under or over-extrusion, then save them to the printer:
- M92 Exxx
(this sets the new ESTEPS. E400, E432, E411, etc) - M500
(this saves the ESTEPS to the printer) - M501
(this displays the settings, check that your new ESTEPS are saved)
- Close the control window
- Repeat from step 3 until the 100mm mark reaches the point you measured from (the toolhead is extruding 100mm)
Repeat this process for flexible filament you use. We have found that ESTEPs may vary depending on the flexibility of the filament used, so it’s a good idea to calibrate ESTEPs for your filament.
Here's a good summary of the process found at lincomatic.com to fine tune your thermistor PID settings in your printer's Marlin firmware to better maintain hot end temperature:
- Allow your hot end to cool to room temp.
- In the terminal in Cura, send the following command: M303 S230 if extruding filament at 230. Change the number in the command to reflect the temperature at which you normally extrude. The M303 SXXX command will tune the extruder.
The hot end will then heat up and finally cool, while logging the temperature. When completed, similar values will be displayed:bias: 101 d: 101 min: 145.48 max: 154.02
Ku: 64.06 Tu: 29.67
Clasic PID
Kp: 19.5
Ki: 1.5
Kd: 63.48
Type that information into the Cura terminal box using the following format, with your values substituted appropriately, then press enter:M301 P19.50 I1.50 D63.48
Enter the following command and press enter to save the PID settings to EEPROM.M500
We've found that correct ESTEPs for the E3D Titan Aero vary depending on the stiffness of the filament. Softer filaments need around 25% higher ESTEPs, and medium flex filaments need around 10% higher.
Here's how to set ESTEPs for different filaments in Cura LulzBot Edition. We know it's a bit of work, but it will make swapping between flex and solid filaments quick and easy!
*** IMPORTANT: DO NOT FLASH FIRMWARE when switching to the "MACHINE" with the Flexystruder, just skip flashing firmware, it's not needed.
- Note the ESTEPs on the label on the toolhead- either on the back or on the stepper motor. If you don't have the label handy, start with 415 ESTEPs for solid filaments
- Open Cura LulzBot Edition (direction Below based on Cura LulzBot Edition Version 21.0X)
- "Machine" menu
- "Add New Machine..."
- Select your Machine
- LulzBot TAZ 4 or 5
- Modified LulzBot TAZ 4 or 5
- PEI
- v2 (LulzBot Hexagon)
- Single Extruder
- Single Extruder V2/.5mm OR Flexystruder V2 if the Machine is for flexible filaments
- .5mm nozzle (note that the stock Flexystruder V2 nozzle is .6mm, you'll need to change that in your print profile when printing flexibles)
- LulzBot TAZ 6
- Single Extruder
- Single Extruder V2.1 OR Flexystruder V2 if the Machine is for flexible filaments
- .5mm nozzle (note that the stock Flexystruder V2 nozzle is .6mm, you'll need to change that in your print profile when printing flexibles)
- LulzBot TAZ 4 or 5
- "Machine" menu
- Ensure the Machine you just added is selected
- Machine Settings
- Change Machine Name
- Enter a new name that will be useful. LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Ninjaflex, LulzBot TAZ 5 Aero Solid, LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Semiflex, etc. Click OK
- In the "E-Steps per 1mm of filament", enter appropriate ESTEPs for the filament you are printing. Around 400 for solid, 440 for semi flexible, 500 for soft filaments. Click OK
- Follow the steps in "calibrating Your Toolhead" to get the correct ESTEPs for your filament and toolhead on your printer
- Repeat from Step 3 for each of the filaments you intend to use. We recommend at least 1 "Machine" for each of solid and flexible filament.
- Machine Menu
- Select the "Machine" you that you intend to use that you created earlier (LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Ninjaflex, LulzBot TAZ 5 Aero Solid, LulzBot TAZ 6 Aero Semiflex, etc)
- *** IMPORTANT: DO NOT FLASH FIRMWARE when switching to the "MACHINE" with the Flexystruder, just skip flashing firmware, it's not needed.
- Select the filament and quality you want to print
- If printing flexibles, check that a .5mm nozzle is set in the profile
- Expert Menu
- Switch to Full Settings
- Yes to "Copy the settings from quickprint...."
- Advanced tab
- Check that Nozzle size (mm) is .5mm
- We DO offer additional optional E3D nozzles in different sizes!
- You can Save the profile settings to preserve the nozzle size and any other tuning you've done
- File menu> Save Profile, Save the .ini file somewhere convenient.
- File menu> Open Profile to load the .ini file you created later
- Video: How to load filament with the E3D Titan Aero
- Heat the hotend to a suitable filament change temperature- 200C is good for ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU
- Trim the end of the filament square
- Ensure the tension knob is set properly- approx 2 turns from fully loose for solid filaments. Some flexibles need another 1-2 turns tighter.
- Push the filament in through the hole in the filament lever until it is pressing with moderate pressure against the hobbed bolt below the filament lever
- In Cura, or from the TAZ LCD, extrude approx 100mm of filament until the new filament pushes the prior filament out through the nozzle. This is known as "purging" the old filament.
- Push the filament down into the idler until the hob has grabbed the filament and is feeding the filament.
- Be sure to not leave PLA sitting stationary in a heated hotend, or to heat it past recommended temperatures, as this can cause crystallization, possibly requiring replacement parts.
- We do not recommend manually inserting or removing filament, as improper removal can result in jamming
- We have found that a good starting tension knob adjustment is 1.5 turns for hard filament and 2-3 turns for softer filaments.
- Per the E3D Titan Aero Wiki's "Adjusting Idler Force" section: "The idler force can be adjusted using the thumb wheel on the side of the extruder. The nut and spring that actually apply the force can be viewed through the lid, giving a quick indicator of the force being applied. The force required will depend on a range of parameters, such as filament material, filament diameter, extrusion rate etc. As a general rule softer filaments (such as flexibles) will need less force than harder ones as the hobb can more easily grip them. The idler force does not need to be perfect in order to print, however to get the best settings for your printer and material combination we advise a little bit of experimentation to find a setting that feels right."
- Change the filament diameter in your Cura profiles to 1.75
- For the Taz 6, reduce retraction distance by half or more to avoid retracting the filament up into the heat break or filament guide. Do this in the Start .Gcode section- change the line G1 E-30 F100 to G1 E-15 F100
- Save the filament profile for later use
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself.
Here's a video on How To Remove and E3D Nozzle
- Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages.
- Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.
- Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.
- Insert the new nozzle.
- Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile.
- Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.
- Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.
Heat the hotend to printing temperature for the loaded filament
Loosen the idler tension knob all the way by turning clockwise until it stops
Pull the idler toward you so it's no longer pressing the filament against the hob gear
Try pushing the filament through manually.
If you can get push the filament through through, check the hob for plastic debris and clean as necessary (be sure to rotate it to see all the ridges)
Tighten the idler tension bolt again around 1.5 turn CCW
From the LCD or Cura, extrude around 40mm of filament to purge the filament
To remove the filamant after purging: From the LCD or Cura, retract around 40mm of filament, pulling up on the filament with moderate force to ensure the filament is fully removed from the idler which prevents blobs of filament hardeneing between the idler bottom and hob gear, preventing removal in the future.
If these steps fail, there may be a filament frangment stuck in the filament path. Try disassembling the toolhead to clear the filament path.
Here's a video on How To Disassemble the IT-Works Titan Aero Toolhead
For additional great information, visit E3D’s Titan Aero Wiki
Joel42 (verified owner) –
I purchased one of these to see if it would help with printing quality, and WOW! It’s lighter than my Hexagon, so it smooths out some of the mass-related issues, and my print quality is FAR better now. I love being able to switch between flexible and rigid filaments with very little effort, too (actually, I don’t change anything – I just load the chosen filament and go). After months of printing, I’ve had exactly one jam, and that was due to my retraction settings; I fixed them, and reprinted with no problems.
I highly recommend this extruder (or the other variants of it).
steven (verified owner) –
I have an Aero Titan. Its fantastic.
I came into 3D Printing with over 30 years of experience in Three-Dimensional drafting. An the first “big shock” I got was, that the literally hundreds of hours I would be able to put on my 3D Printer, would …..
(“no duh!) ….. cause parts and adjustments on the Printer to wear out, go out of adjustment, or fail! The second realization was that there was no neighborhood 3D Printer service to fix things, I would have to fix them myself. And the third hard fact, was my Lulzbot warranty would eventually expire! This is a reality, that no one can escape.
There are two kinds of 3DP enthusiasts. Those who love micro-circuitry and robotics, and just print the simplistic equivalent of ceramic class ashtrays. And those who are 3D Drafting specialists, who want to create complex prototype parts, BUT …… experience a special kind of hell in struggling with their lack of electro/mechanical robotics skills.
Understand, that my Lulzbot Taz is an amazing workhorse, that performs 99.9% of the time.
IT-WORKS 3D!! They and the Lulzbot family are why i can love 3D-Printing. i’ve lost count of the number of times they have successfully advised and trouble shooted in areas that are not part of a sale of a part, or service….. I’ve simply shared an issue or question, and usually within hours they have provided a suggested solution. They have guided me through taking out and putting back in parts. I have mailed them the entire machine, and it has experienced shipping damage. And even there, they have been able to secure the insurance compensation needed to resolve it.
IT-Works are honest and have the highest level of knowledge/skills possible. Lulzbot is very picky who it certifies to represent their product in the after-warranty stage, And if you call Lulzbot for an after-warranty repair, they enthusiastically recommend It-Works 3D.
It-Works 3D has a tall order, working with the high (and usually unrealistic) expectations Users have for their 3D Printers. They can’t change the realities of 3DP, but they definitely can change the User experience, and level of success!
Your not going to get better or more economical parts, service, and advice, And your not going to find an independent 3D Printing support service more honest and dedicated to the Customer.
scott811 (verified owner) –
Man, if you think a Taz6 can’t printer accurately, then you haven’t tried this print head. Even coming from a MUCH more accurate (than the standard single extruder) Aerostruder TAZ toolhead, this made at least a 20% improvement in prints. I now own two of them, so I can quickly change between finer nozzles, etc. If you’re looking for a do-all printer head grab the 0.4 and enjoy the amazing prints. With almost no setup this started to produce amazing quality prints out of the box.
Can’t say enough awesome things about this printer head and company. Zach is amazing and his product just WORKS. This is a must own for ANY Taz printer.